Lock change and replacement
New hardware installed when the existing lock is worn, damaged, obsolete, or not secure enough. If the lock is actually fine and the problem is who holds a key, rekeying costs less and this page will say so.
Or send a service request online if you cannot call right now.
Read this before you buy new locks
A large share of people who ask for new locks actually need a rekey, which costs less. The test is one question.
Is the problem who might have a key, or is the problem the lock itself?
- Who has a key. You moved in, lost a key, or somebody left. That is a rekey.
- The lock itself. It sticks, grinds, is damaged, or is too old for parts. That is a replacement.
Nobody makes more money by telling you this. It is just the right answer.
- CT registered locksmithRegistration LCK.0000486
- Insured locksmithWork done by an insured business
- Upfront quote and ETABefore anyone is dispatched
- Pay after the workOnly once the job is done
- Family ownedLocal and accountable
- Damage free entryOur standard method
When a lock should be replaced rather than rekeyed
Replace a lock when the hardware itself is the problem, meaning it is worn, damaged, obsolete, or not secure enough for the door. Rekey instead when the lock works properly and the only concern is who might still hold a key, because rekeying keeps your existing hardware and normally costs less. Replacement is also the right choice when you want a different type of lock, such as a keypad, or a higher security grade on an exposed door.
- Sticking, grinding, or needing force? The hardware is near the end. Replace it.
- Turns smoothly and you just lost a key? Rekey. It is cheaper.
- The frame matters more than a third lock. A long screw strike plate does more than extra hardware.
Rekey against replace, compared honestly
| Your situation | Usually the right answer | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Just moved into a home | Rekey | The locks are probably fine. The key history is the unknown. |
| Lost a key with your address attached | Rekey | Stops the lost key working, keeps your hardware. |
| Lock sticks or needs force to turn | Replace | Mechanical wear only worsens, and it fails at the worst moment. |
| Somebody tried to force the door | Replace | A stressed lock may have hidden damage and cannot be trusted. |
| Lock is decades old and parts are gone | Replace | Obsolete hardware cannot be serviced or reliably rekeyed. |
| You want one key for every door | Either | Rekey if compatible. Replace if the cylinders cannot be matched. |
| You want a keypad or a smart lock | Replace | A different lock type means new hardware by definition. |
| A former employee has keys | Rekey | Does the same job across every door at lower cost. |
Choosing hardware that is worth the money
Lock quality varies enormously at similar prices, and the differences are not obvious in a shop. These are the things that actually matter on a residential exterior door.
- Deadbolt grade. Commonly rated in three tiers, with Grade 1 the strongest. Put the higher grade on the doors that are exposed or hidden from the street.
- Bolt throw length. A longer bolt engages further into the frame and is meaningfully harder to force.
- The strike plate and its screws. This is the most overlooked upgrade in home security. A reinforced strike plate with screws long enough to reach the frame studs does more than a more expensive lock installed with short screws.
- Solid metal construction. Weight and material tell you a great deal, and a lock that feels hollow generally is.
- Key control. Some systems restrict who can copy your key, which matters for a rental property or a business.
The strike plate upgrade, included with a lock change
Most doors leave the factory with strike plate screws that only bite into thin trim, which is why a forced door usually fails at the frame rather than at the lock. A reinforced plate with screws long enough to reach the framing behind the jamb is installed as part of a lock change. Ask for it and it is handled while the door is already open.
High security hardware is not offered
This is not a service we take on, so a specialist in that work is the right call. Knowing now saves you a wasted visit.
Have this ready before you request service
Every item below either speeds the job up or decides whether it can be done at all. Having them ready at the start avoids a second trip.
- The full address, including a unit or an apartment number.
- Whether you own the property or rent it.
- Proof that you live there or own it, such as a lease, a deed, or mail with your name, plus a photo ID.
- Which door is locked and what type of lock it uses.
- Whether anyone else needs to approve the work, such as a landlord or a property manager.
A difficult door is not always a failed lock
Two common causes of a sticking door sit outside the lock itself, and both are cheaper to put right. They get ruled out before any hardware is recommended.
- A worn key. Years of use wears the key as well as the cylinder. A freshly cut key sometimes restores a door that felt like it was failing.
- Door alignment. When the bolt binds against the strike plate, the door has dropped or the frame has moved with the seasons. That is an adjustment rather than new hardware.
Describe how the door feels when you use it and you get an honest recommendation instead of an automatic sale.
What you can put on the door
Single cylinder deadbolt
Key outside, thumb turn inside. The standard residential choice and the right answer for most doors.
Double cylinder deadbolt
Key on both sides, used where glass sits near the lock. Consider fire escape carefully, because you cannot get out without a key.
Keypad or smart lock
Useful for temporary access without handing over a key. Check that yours keeps a mechanical key override.
Commercial hardware
Mortise locks, panic bars, and storefront cylinders. Fire exit hardware must keep working correctly afterwards.
An honest note on double cylinder deadbolts
A double cylinder deadbolt stops somebody breaking the glass and reaching the thumb turn. It also means nobody inside can open that door without a key, including in a fire, at night, in smoke. If you install one, the key must live somewhere everyone in the household knows and can reach instantly, and never in a pocket that leaves the house. Some jurisdictions restrict them on required exit doors, so check local requirements before choosing one.
What decides the cost of a lock change
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Tell us about the job
How many locks are involved, whether you want them rekeyed or replaced, and the brand on the lock if you can see one.
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Get your quote and ETA upfront
You hear the price for your exact vehicle or lock, and when to expect us, before anyone is dispatched.
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Pay when the work is done
Nothing is paid up front. You pay once the job is finished and tested. Card, tap to pay, and cash are all accepted.
What changes the price
- How many locks
- Rekeying four exterior cylinders costs more than rekeying one. The price scales with the number of cylinders, not the number of doors.
- Lock condition and brand
- A serviceable modern lock can usually be rekeyed. A worn, damaged, or obsolete lock is often cheaper to replace than to repair.
- Rekey against replace
- Rekeying keeps your existing hardware and changes which key operates it. Replacement changes the hardware itself. Rekeying is usually the lower cost option when the hardware is in good shape.
- Keyed alike requests
- Bringing several locks onto one key is straightforward when the cylinders are compatible and more involved when they are not.
- Access and hardware type
- A standard residential deadbolt is a different job from a commercial storefront lock.
Lockout, rekeying, and lock change services
Fast, damage free entry and lock services for vehicles, homes, and commercial properties across Eastern Connecticut.
Vehicle lockout
Damage-free door and trunk entry for cars, trucks, and RVs.
Home and apartment lockout
Non-destructive front door, knob, and deadbolt picking.
Commercial lockout
Office, storefront, and commercial door unlocking on site.
Rekey locks
Change internal pins so old keys no longer work.
Lock change and hardware Current
Fresh locksets, deadbolts, and hardware replacement.
Car key replacement
Lost your keys during a lockout? New keys made on site.
Lock change questions
There is a simple test. If the problem is who might have a key, rekey. If the problem is the lock itself, replace it.
Rekeying keeps your hardware and stops every old key working, and it is normally the cheaper route. Replacement is the right answer when the lock is worn, damaged, obsolete, or not secure enough for the door it is on. The rekey page covers the other side of this decision.
Residential deadbolts are commonly graded in three tiers, with Grade 1 the strongest and Grade 3 the most basic. The grade reflects tested resistance to force and the number of operating cycles the lock is built to survive.
It matters most on doors that are exposed or out of sight from the street. It matters less on an interior door. A common and sensible arrangement is a stronger grade on the front and back doors, with the budget going where the risk actually is.
It depends on the problem you are solving. A keypad or smart lock is genuinely useful if you regularly need to give temporary access to a cleaner, a contractor, or family, or if you are tired of hiding a spare key outside, which is a bad idea in any case.
It adds things a mechanical lock does not have: batteries that die, firmware, and in some cases an app and an account. Most models keep a mechanical key override, and you should confirm yours does. This site will not tell you a smart lock is automatically more secure, because that depends entirely on the model.
Often yes, by having the new lock keyed to match your existing key. That way one new lock joins the set instead of adding another key to your ring.
It requires the new hardware to be compatible with your current key system, which is common within the same brand and less certain across brands. Say that you want to keep your existing key when you request service so compatible hardware is selected from the start.
Not always, and the three causes are priced very differently. A stiff lock can be a worn key rather than a worn cylinder, it can be a door that has dropped so the bolt binds against the strike plate, or it can genuinely be hardware at the end of its life.
All three are checked before anything is recommended, so you are not sold a new lock for a door alignment problem or a worn key. Describe how it feels when you use it and you get an honest answer.
For most exterior residential doors, a knob or lever for everyday use plus a separate deadbolt for security is the standard and sensible arrangement. The knob keeps the door closed. The deadbolt does the actual security work.
Adding more locks to the same door has diminishing returns, because a door is only as strong as its frame and its hinges. If security is the goal, a solid deadbolt with a long screw strike plate into the frame studs does far more than a third lock.
Lock changes in 48 Eastern Connecticut towns
Each town page explains what the local roads, housing, and access mean for the visit. Find yours below.
Hartford County 1 town
Middlesex County 4 towns
New London County 21 towns
Describe how the lock behaves
Whether it sticks, grinds, or turns smoothly, how many doors are involved, and whether you want everything on one key. That is enough for an honest recommendation.
Or send a service request online if you cannot call right now.
Call or text with the vehicle or the property, the exact location, and what happened. You get an upfront quote and an arrival estimate before anyone is dispatched, and you pay only after the work is done.
Opening hours
HoursMonday to Friday 6:00am to 9:00pm, Saturday 6:00am to 11:00am
- Monday to Friday 6:00am to 9:00pm
- Saturday 6:00am to 11:00am
- Sunday Closed
Outside these hours, emergency jobs are taken case by case and are not guaranteed. Call to confirm.
Payment: Card, tap to pay, or cash, taken once the work is done.